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Living in the wild North

Logo https://permarisk.pageflow.io/living-in-the-wild-north

Wilderness seems to stretch endlessly all around Churchill. About 900 people live in this small town at the Hudson Bay - together with polar bears, belugas and over 270 species of birds. Here, life takes place on the border between land and ocean, subarctic tundra and boreal forest, civilisation and wilderness.
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There is no road going to Churchill - a small town at the Hudson Bay in Northern Canada. You can only reach it by plane or by train. The flight from Winnipeg takes four hours, the train ride takes three days.
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Every year up to 3.000 beluga whales migrate from the Hudson Bay into the Churchill River. The relatively warm river water is an ideal place for the whales to raise their young in the months from June to August.
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Hundreds of polar bears gather at the shore of the Hudson Bay in October and wait for the sea ice to return. The ice allows them to go hunting for seals. The people in Churchill are at high alert this time of the year. A polar bear could appear any moment anywhere in town. Cars are never locked in Churchill - in case someone has to seek shelter from a polar bear.
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Every season holds its own, unique challenges for the people living in Churchill. There are mosquitoes in summer, polar bears in autumn and extreme cold in winter. In spite and because of it, people here have a very special relationship with nature, to the land and its gifts. Hunting, trapping, fishing or collecting berries are a normal part of everyday life in the North.

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Sandra Cook is an artist who has been living in Churchill since her childhood. With her art she expresses her love for this place. The beautiful, wild and terrible nature is at the centre of her works. After high school Churchill felt too small and she left to discover the rest of the world.  But when she came back, she discovered a whole, new fascinating world.
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Sandra Cook

Artist

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People of Churchill talk about their lives in the wilderness. Click on the persons on the next page and let them tell their stories.
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Parker Fitzpatrick

Engineer and trapper

Sandra Cook

Artist

Carley Basler

Sustainability Manager of the Churchill Northern Studies Centre

Kevin Burke

Tourist guide

Elijah Zimmermann

Executive director of the Churchill Northern Study Centre

LeeAnn Fishback

Scientific coordinator of the Churchill Northern Studies Centre

Dave Daley

Musher

Matthew Webb

Park Ecologist at Parks Canada

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The North is warming faster and stronger than suspected. Mean annual temperatures in Arctic Canada have risen by 2°C since 1948 - this is almost three times warmer than the average global rise in temperature. Consequences of this change are already taking place and can be seen in Arctic towns like Churchill.
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Dr. LeeAnn Fishback

Scientific Coordinator in the Churchill Northern Studies Centre

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Churchill depends on the South - the train brings food, the powerlines bring electricity. But both the railway and the powerline are very susceptible to thawing permafrost, storms or floods - events that happen more often and with more impact due to climate change. The town of Churchill therefore created a steering committee with members of commerce, science and administration. The committee develops measures for adaptation to climate change. At the Curchill airport, for example, thermosyphons have been installed in the ground. Thermosyphons are pipes drilled deep down into the permafrost. The pipes extract heat from the ground and release it into the atmosphere.
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Indoor-Farming in the high North

Carley Basler grows up to 600 plants in the Growcer - a hydroponic indoor-system that is independent of weather and season.
Carley Basler grows up to 600 plants in the Growcer - a hydroponic indoor-system that is independent of weather and season.
Vollbild
Traditional farming is not possible anymore this far North. The soil is too cold and wet, the winter is too cold and long. Instead, food is transported over long distances from the South. In the end, the products are expensive and rarely fresh. Carley Basler is sustainability manager at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre and manages Rocket Greens. At Rocket Greens, vegetables are grown in a container using a hydroponic system: plants grow year-round in a mineral solution. For Churchill residents Rocket Greens provides locally grown, fresh organic vegetables and a way to become more resilient and independent.
Carley Basler grows up to 600 plants in the Growcer - a hydroponic indoor-system that is independent of weather and season.
Carley Basler grows up to 600 plants in the Growcer - a hydroponic indoor-system that is independent of weather and season.
Schließen
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Churchill is only one of many communities in the Arctic facing climate change. The people of the North have always adapted to changing environmental conditions. To them, the natural environment is constantly changing, never steady. They have learned to manage their resources flexibly and sustainably. Yet, climate change with its speed and force especially in the North poses the biggest challenge and the largest threat to the Arctic and its residents today.
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Living in the wild North
A project of the research group PermaRisk

Research at Churchill was conducted with the support of the Churchill Northern Studies Centre.

The project was funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and supported by Frontiers North Adventures.

Scenario, production and postproduction: denkbargruen and dsein

Design: dsein

Photo and Video:
Page 1 - PermaRiskSeite 2 - Captain Blood CC BY-SA 3.0
Page 3, 4 - Frontiers North Adventures
Page 5 bis 10, 12, 13, 15 - Sina Muster
Page 11 - Moritz Langer
Page 13 - Simon Gee




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LeeAnn

LeeAnn Fishback, Ph. D.

Scientific coordinator, Churchill Northern Studies Centre

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"I've lived in Churchill for 16 years now and I have to say one of the best things about it is the community. They are a group of really resilient people and really kind-hearted and genuine people who live here in Churchill. It's really neat to be part of a group of people who lives in a remote place and really makes things happen and shares experiences and lives together. I also really enjoy the diversity of a life here. We always say there's never a dull moment. Just wait, it’ll change -  from summer, warm conditions, open water to winter, cold conditions, snow. It really is a spectacular landscape and a really awesome place to live. I think one of the huge challenges with a small place like this is that there is a limited availability of resources. It's challenging sometimes to get the things that you need. You can't just go somewhere and pick up widget or piece number A, it has to come in from outside. So a lot of times you end up having to make do with what you have around and that does become a challenge especially when we're trying to operate a facility like this or even do a very specific science project. It can mean the difference on how well things go in some cases. But because it is such a great community people are happy to share resources and share assistance when they when they can - but it is a big challenge."

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Elijah Zimmerman, Ph. D.

Executive director, Churchill Northern Studies Centre

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"The cold actually is an interesting mix. The cold is so cold that it has an interesting dimension to it. I grew up in Minnesota. That's also a very cold place in the winter. But because of the lights, the Northern Lights or the Aurora Borealis and the quality of the cold - it is very dry. It's sort of a different experience. You don't want to be outside too long. Bu because of the extreme it's almost like you have your own relationship with it. It's something you have to negotiate psychologically with, physically with, emotionally with. For me, it almost becomes not something you're enduring but you're negotiating as it goes. I actually had a puppy over the winter as well. And so training him to go outside was also very interesting. So I had a different relationship with the cold, having to go out, figuring out the best times to go and how to dress warmly. I think the biggest thing is how long it stretches. So it's not the depth of the cold or the wind per se, it's that the winter just keeps going and going. I think we still had snow or ice right up until the last week of June. And so when people from elsewhere posting all these beautiful spring photos or of lush green, it's a bit psychologically jarring to be like we should be seeing something happening by now, but it's still cold and you’re still wearing layers. But it's also an interesting cycle because things actually progress so quickly here. It‘s like the experience of time - in some ways things are sort of steady or they don't seem to be changing but it is changing very quickly particularly with the sun. And just how you hit that peak at Solstice in the summer and then the lowest point in the winter and then very quickly the sun is coming back. And you notice things changing with the sea ice, with the lights, are the birds coming, how many birds, how fast… and in the summer time you have little wild flowers and some are there for a week and then some are there for a few weeks and then there's just all this color - and then it's gone. And then you get this beautiful week or two in the fall of colors and then that‘s gone, then the Bears are here and the tourists. Things move pretty quickly but because it's also that subarctic terrain with the trees and the tundra - nothing is very big so you don't get that enormous feel of change. But if you blink, you look, oh that flowers there yesterday, now it's not, oh here's another one - now it's not. So it's a different relationship to time for me here in the subarctic than in the South."

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Dave Daley

Dog breeder and musher

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"I grew up in this area hunting, fishing and trapping. That's how I grew up. I've been here 56 years, almost 57 years, and I know everything about Churchill and the land and the animals. I was taught a great love and respect for animals. My family, we always believed that the animals were put here by the Creator for us. And as long as we're respectful and grateful for our animals, then we'll always have our abundance. When you're fishing and that fish bites your hook or you set a snare for a rabbit or you catch a ptarmigan or a moose or a caribou, we always believe that that animal gave themselves to us. Because that's why they're here. So whenever we harvest, we harvest respectfully, which means we take our animals as quickly as we can. Then we always spend time with it - whether it's a fish or a rabbit or a moose and we always say our own personal little prayer and we always thank the animal for giving themselves to us. And then we always thank the creator for creating the animals. And that's the philosophy I use when I raise my sled dogs. It's all about love and respect."

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Carley

Carley Basler

Nachhaltigkeitsmanagerin am Churchill Northern Studies Centre

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"Churchill is an interesting and exciting place. There's always a lot going on. It's different from other Northern communities that I've visited. We have a giant science center. We have a thriving eco tourism industry. We have visitors from all over the world to come all throughout the year which is different from other small isolated communities. So there's lots of excitement but it's also really easy to slow the pace of your life down. The views are spectacular, the wildlife is spectacular. If you like being outside, you can go hiking boating, fishing, hunting. There is no traffic. If you like those things then life is easy here. If you can set aside some of those extravagant trappings of city life. Like the ability to go to a cafe. The ability to grocery shop at 11 p.m. Like some of those things that people take for granted in larger centres. I come from the south so occasionally I have those frustrations. Sometimes I'm sitting on my couch at night at 8 p.m. and I wish I could go into the grocery store. But we live in a town where it closes at 8:00. So you're done. To arrange shipping or to think logistically for the things that you need and want in your life is a little more challenging here. But I feel that it pays off - the kind of the natural beauty and that sort of like relaxed lifestyle. It's a good trade."

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Sandra Cook

Artist

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"I often will tell people ‘look down’, in the summertime, ‘look down’. What grows is so small, but it's remarkable that it grows. And in just a couple of weeks you won't be able to walk across the tundra without squishing berries. There's food right there, all over. It's amazing - like I said - the growth is fast and furious and it happens and it's very lush but you need to look down. In the winter there's a beauty in the emptiness. And the only thing, the only companion you have on a walk is the wind and it's ever present. And the wind sculpts the snow, it alters the trees, it changes the way you walk. There's beauty in that and there's beauty in the fact that the trees can survive in that wind. And then all of a sudden a raven will fly overhead, and there's beauty in that and the ravens will do acrobatics when it's minus 50 and the wind is blowing so hard you're bent over double and you look up and you'll see ravens flying around. That's beauty. It's a harsh beauty. And not everybody sees that, I think. Honestly, I think that the people who live here see that."  

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“In Churchill, I am most fascinated with the raw beauty, the iconic wildlife, the remote landscapes and the fact that you can still find places that are largely untouched by civilization. Churchill has captured a special place in my heart and I think it’s a place that is worth preserving and developing responsibly, as we still have much to learn.”
Matthew Webb, Parc ecologist
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Kevin Burke

Tourist guide

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"There's good times there’s bad times with everything anywhere in the world. But here we just seem to have a lot of freedom. The small town freedom. You don't have roads going in and out of the area here. The only way you can arrive into Churchill is via aircraft or train. This is the end of the rail line. So if the train is running you can arrive in Churchill on the train or you can come here by a ship, too. So there are no roads. So our quaint little town tends to stay quaint. I do like that about it. “

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“I moved to Churchill 27 years ago as an engineer. I moved here especially to trap. I trap marten, fox, sable and beaver. I do the trapping for extra income and I like the lifestyle. Keeps you fairly healthy, it is really hard work being in the cold all day all winter. But winter is freedom because there is nowhere you can’t go.”
Parker Fitzpatrick, engineer and trapper
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